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How To Clean A Cooker Hood

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How To Clean A Cooker Hood

How To Clean A Cooker Hood

Knowing how to clean a cooker hood properly makes a noticeable difference to kitchen hygiene, air quality and appliance lifespan. In UK homes, grease laden vapour from cooking builds up quickly inside extractor hoods, filters and ducting. Left alone, this residue reduces airflow, increases fire risk and forces the fan motor to work harder, which shortens its life.

This guide explains how to clean a cooker hood step by step using methods that actually work on UK appliances. It draws on what tradespeople see regularly in domestic kitchens, including common faults, realistic maintenance schedules and the costs involved if you decide to bring in a professional.

Why Regular Cooker Hood Cleaning Matters

Cooker hoods deal with grease, steam and airborne particles every day. The greasy film you see on cabinets is also building up inside your hood, especially in metal mesh filters and fan blades.

If cleaning is neglected, three things happen. Air extraction becomes weaker, which leads to lingering odours and condensation. Grease becomes a fire hazard, particularly around the motor housing. Electrical components become stressed, increasing the chance of failure.

From a building performance point of view, poor extraction contributes to damp conditions. If your kitchen ventilation is already marginal, a blocked hood can accelerate mould growth. For a deeper look at airflow requirements, see Ventilation in UK Bathrooms and Kitchens Explained Extractor Fan Sizing Ducting Rules and Condensation Control.

Regular cleaning also helps the hood capture grease before it reaches cupboards, ceilings and painted walls. Once cooking grease has mixed with dust, it forms a stubborn coating that can damage decorative finishes and attract further dirt.

A clean filter does not guarantee good extraction on its own. The hood needs a clear airflow path from the intake, through the filter and fan, then through the duct to the external grille. Recirculating models need a clear return path back into the room. Each part of that route affects performance.

Types of Cooker Hood in UK Homes

Before cleaning, identify your hood type as this affects access and method.

  • Chimney hoods, wall mounted units with visible ducting or chimney casing
  • Integrated hoods, built into cupboards, often overlooked and harder to access
  • Visor hoods, compact units with a pull out visor
  • Island hoods, ceiling mounted and often more expensive to maintain
  • Recirculating hoods, using carbon filters instead of external ducting

Each uses grease filters, usually aluminium mesh or stainless steel baffle filters. Recirculating models also contain carbon filters, which cannot be washed and must be replaced.

Some modern cooker hoods use washable long life odour filters. These are different from standard disposable carbon pads. A long life filter may be cleaned and regenerated in an oven, but only at the temperature and interval stated by the manufacturer. Applying this treatment to an ordinary carbon filter can damage it and create an odour.

Older visor and integrated hoods may use a disposable paper, fleece or fabric grease filter rather than a metal one. These should not be soaked. Many contain saturation markings that become visible once replacement is due. Cut replacement material only if the manufacturer allows it, and make sure it sits flat without obstructing the fan.

How Often Should You Clean a Cooker Hood

The right schedule depends on usage. In a typical UK household cooking once or twice daily, the following is realistic.

  • Grease filters every 3 to 4 weeks
  • Exterior surfaces weekly
  • Fan housing every 3 to 6 months
  • Carbon filters every 3 to 6 months if recirculating
  • Ducting inspection every 12 to 24 months

Heavy cooking, especially frying, will shorten these intervals.

A household that regularly uses a wok, griddle or deep fat fryer may need to clean metal filters every two weeks. Occasional cooks may be able to extend the interval, but the filter should still be checked monthly. Hold a metal mesh filter up to a light. If light barely passes through it, the mesh is restricted and needs cleaning.

Use the filter warning light as a reminder rather than proof that a filter is clean. Many warning systems are simple timers and do not measure grease loading. Reset the indicator only after cleaning or replacing the relevant filter.

Tools and Cleaning Materials That Actually Work

You do not need specialist products. Tradespeople tend to rely on simple but effective items.

  • Degreasing washing up liquid
  • Hot water
  • Bicarbonate of soda
  • White vinegar
  • Non scratch sponge or soft brush
  • Microfibre cloths
  • Old toothbrush for tight areas
  • Rubber gloves

Avoid harsh caustic oven cleaners on aluminium filters. They can cause corrosion and discolouration.

Prepare a towel or shallow tray for greasy components before removal. This prevents drips reaching the hob, floor or worktop. A stable set of steps may be needed for an island or high level chimney hood. Do not stand on a chair or work directly over a hot hob.

Never mix cleaning products. In particular, do not combine bleach with vinegar or other acidic cleaners. Good ventilation and gloves are sensible even when using ordinary household degreasers.

How To Clean A Cooker Hood Step By Step

1. Isolate the Power

Always isolate the appliance before starting. Either unplug the hood or switch it off at the fused spur. This aligns with basic electrical safety guidance from the Health and Safety Executive.

Allow lamps and the surrounding metalwork to cool first. If the hood is hard wired and you cannot identify the correct isolation point, limit the work to safe external wiping until someone competent can isolate it properly. Switching the fan off at its control button is not the same as isolating the electrical supply.

2. Remove the Grease Filters

Most filters clip out easily. If they feel stuck, it is usually grease acting like glue. Apply gentle pressure and avoid bending the frame.

Support the filter with both hands as you release the catch. Large baffle filters can be heavier than expected, while thin aluminium mesh frames bend easily. Take a quick photograph before removing several filters so that each one goes back in the correct position.

Check for a carbon filter behind the grease filter. On many recirculating hoods it is clipped or twisted onto the motor casing. Do not immerse it unless the appliance instructions specifically identify it as a washable long life type.

3. Soak and Clean the Filters

Fill a sink or tub with hot water and washing up liquid. Add two to three tablespoons of bicarbonate of soda. Submerge the filters and leave for at least 15 minutes.

Use a soft brush to remove grease. For heavy build up, a second soak may be needed. Some filters are dishwasher safe, but check manufacturer guidance first.

Use hot water rather than boiling water. Sudden high temperatures can distort lightweight frames or affect bonded parts. Brush in the direction of the mesh and work gently around clips and handles. Repeated hard scrubbing can separate the layers inside an aluminium filter.

Rinse until the water runs clear and no detergent remains in the mesh. Stand the filter upright on a towel and allow it to air dry fully. Shaking it removes trapped water, but take care around sharp frame edges.

Filter Specific Cleaning Advice

Aluminium mesh filters need a mild detergent and soft brush. Dishwasher cleaning may darken aluminium because of alkaline dishwasher salts. This usually affects appearance rather than function, but the manufacturer may advise hand washing to protect the finish.

Stainless steel mesh filters are generally more resistant to dishwasher detergents. Place them securely so that spray pressure cannot make them strike other items. Do not wash greasy filters with crockery, cutlery or food preparation equipment.

Stainless steel baffle filters contain channels that collect grease. Soak them with the channels open to the water, then flush each channel thoroughly. Check any collection cup or drain channel fitted to the hood and empty it before cleaning.

Disposable paper or fabric filters should be replaced once saturated, stained or damaged. Washing can break down the material and reduce its ability to capture grease. Use the correct size and rating specified for the appliance.

Long life odour filters require model specific treatment. Some can be rinsed and dried, while others need controlled oven regeneration. Check the temperature carefully because excess heat can damage the filter and may affect the cooker hood warranty.

4. Clean the Hood Interior

With filters removed, you can access the fan area. Wipe away grease using a degreasing solution. Pay attention to corners and intake slots.

Avoid soaking electrical components. Use a damp cloth rather than spraying directly.

Apply cleaner to the cloth, not to the hood. Keep moisture away from the motor, wiring, lamp holders, switches, circuit boards and electrical connectors. Do not insert tools or fingers through a fan guard.

Loose grease can be lifted with kitchen paper before using a damp cloth. Work from the cleaner areas towards the heaviest deposits so that grease is not spread across the casing. Do not scrape painted or coated metal with a blade.

If the fan impeller is easily accessible under a removable guard, follow the manufacturer’s cleaning instructions. Many domestic fans are not designed for user removal. Disturbing the impeller can unbalance it, loosen its retaining nut or expose live electrical parts.

5. Clean the Exterior

Stainless steel surfaces benefit from a mild detergent followed by a dry microfibre cloth to reduce streaks. Glass panels can be cleaned with standard glass cleaner.

Wipe stainless steel in the direction of the visible grain. Abrasive pads can leave permanent scratches, while chlorine based cleaners can cause staining or pitting. Spray glass cleaner onto a cloth to prevent liquid running behind controls or into lamp openings.

For painted, enamelled or coloured finishes, test any cleaner on a hidden area first. Strong solvents may soften markings around control buttons or damage decorative coatings.

6. Reassemble and Test

Once everything is fully dry, refit the filters and restore power. Check the fan operation at all speeds.

Confirm that every filter catch has engaged properly. A loose metal filter may vibrate or fall during use. Listen to the fan at each setting and check that air is leaving the external grille if the hood is ducted outdoors.

Hold a single sheet of kitchen paper near the intake as a simple suction check, without allowing it to be pulled into the hood. This does not measure airflow, but it can show whether cleaning has produced a noticeable improvement.

Safe Disposal of Grease and Cleaning Water

Do not pour liquid cooking fat, thick grease or oily sludge down the sink. It cools and adheres to pipework, where it can contribute to blockages and fat deposits in the drainage system.

Wipe heavy deposits into kitchen paper and place them in the general household waste. Allow hot cooking oil to cool, pour it into a sealed container and check whether your local household waste recycling centre accepts used cooking oil. Local authority arrangements vary across the UK.

Small amounts of greasy washing water from filter cleaning can usually be discharged through the foul water system after as much grease as possible has been removed. Do not pour it into a surface water drain outside. Surface water drains may discharge directly to a watercourse.

Do not compost greasy paper or carbon filters unless the manufacturer and your local collection service expressly permit it. Used carbon filters and disposable grease filters normally belong in general waste.

Cleaning Carbon Filters

If your hood recirculates air, it uses carbon filters to remove odours. These cannot be cleaned effectively. Once saturated, they lose performance.

Typical replacement cost in the UK ranges from £10 to £40 per filter depending on brand. Premium models can exceed £60.

Failing to replace them means odours linger even if the grease filters are spotless.

Use the exact filter reference listed for the hood. A filter that appears to fit may not seal around the motor correctly, allowing air to bypass the carbon medium. Pattern parts can be suitable, but check that their dimensions, fixing method and appliance compatibility match the original specification.

A carbon filter should also be replaced if it is cracked, swollen, crumbling or producing a persistent stale smell. Homes where cooking is frequent, or where strong spices and frying are common, may need replacements sooner than the nominal schedule.

Manufacturer Instructions and Warranty Considerations

Before dismantling the hood, check the appliance manual and warranty terms. Manufacturers differ on dishwasher use, approved cleaning products, user removable components and carbon filter care. The model number is commonly found on a label behind the grease filter.

Damage caused by unsuitable chemicals, water entering electrical parts or unauthorised dismantling may not be covered by the warranty. Removing the motor, control board or fixed casing can also affect cover if these are not listed as user serviceable parts.

Keep receipts for approved replacement filters and record cleaning dates where the appliance is still under warranty. If a fault develops, this provides useful evidence that routine maintenance has been carried out.

If the hood is part of a rented home, cleaning responsibilities should be checked against the tenancy agreement and inventory. Day to day filter cleaning may be treated differently from repairing a failed motor or altering fixed ductwork.

Checking Ducting and Airflow

A ducted cooker hood can only perform properly if the route to outside is clear and correctly arranged. Start with the external grille while the fan is running. The flap should open freely and there should be a noticeable flow of air. Keep hands clear of moving shutters and do not work at height without suitable access equipment.

Switch off and isolate the hood before examining any accessible internal duct connections. Look for crushed flexible ducting, loose joints, sharp bends, grease leakage and sections that have sagged. A sag can hold condensation and grease, while a partly detached joint may discharge moist air into a cupboard, ceiling void or loft.

Rigid smooth bore duct usually produces less resistance than long runs of corrugated flexible duct. Flexible material should be kept as short and straight as practical. Tight bends, reducers and several elbows all reduce airflow and increase noise.

Check that the duct diameter meets the hood manufacturer’s requirements. Many domestic hoods use 125 mm or 150 mm ducting. Reducing a 150 mm outlet to a small duct may significantly restrict performance. The route should discharge outdoors, not into a loft, wall cavity, floor void or garage.

Inspect the external terminal for leaves, nesting material, grease and a jammed backdraught shutter. Do not disturb an active bird nest. Wild birds, their nests and eggs have legal protection, so obtain suitable advice if nesting is suspected.

Condensation inside a duct can point to an uninsulated run through a cold loft or another unheated space. Appropriate insulation and correct duct falls can reduce this problem. Alterations hidden in a roof or wall are better handled by a ventilation installer who can check fire stopping, weathering and safe access.

Recirculating hoods have no external duct, but their discharge slots still need to remain clear. Cupboard contents, trim panels or an incorrectly fitted chimney section can obstruct the cleaned air returning to the kitchen.

Troubleshooting Weak Extraction

Weak suction does not always mean the motor has failed. Work through the airflow path systematically before replacing the appliance.

  1. Clean the grease filters, blocked mesh is the most common cause of reduced performance.
  2. Replace saturated carbon filters, on a recirculating hood these create resistance as well as losing odour control.
  3. Open a nearby window slightly, if extraction improves, the room may lack adequate replacement air.
  4. Check the external grille, a stuck shutter or debris can restrict the outlet.
  5. Inspect accessible ducting, look for crushing, sagging, disconnected joints and excessive bends.
  6. Test every fan speed, failure on one setting may indicate a control, capacitor or motor fault rather than dirt.
  7. Check installation height, a hood mounted too high may capture steam poorly even if its airflow is adequate.

Kitchen doors and highly airtight windows can affect the supply of replacement air. Do not permanently block or remove purpose provided ventilators to manage draughts. Open flued combustion appliances need particular care because powerful extraction can affect safe operation. Seek advice from a Gas Safe registered engineer where a gas appliance or open flue is present and there are concerns about ventilation.

Steam escaping around the sides may result from using a pan larger than the hood capture area. Turn the extractor on shortly before cooking, use rear rings where practical and leave the fan running for several minutes afterwards.

Troubleshooting Unusual Noises

A rattling noise often comes from a loose filter, a poorly seated carbon cartridge or a vibrating duct panel. Isolate the power, refit accessible parts and check that visible screws and clips are secure. Do not overtighten fixings into thin sheet metal.

A ticking sound may indicate that the fan blade is touching grease deposits, a cable or foreign material. Do not reach into the fan. If the obstruction is not visible and safely removable without dismantling guards, arrange a repair.

Whistling commonly points to restricted airflow, an undersized duct, a closed external flap or an air leak at a duct joint. A sudden increase in normal fan noise after filter cleaning may mean a filter has been fitted incorrectly.

Grinding, scraping or rumbling can indicate worn motor bearings or a damaged impeller. A fan that hums but does not start may have a failed capacitor, seized motor or electrical control fault. Stop using the hood and have it inspected. Continued operation can overheat the motor.

Strong vibration may be caused by an unbalanced impeller, often after grease has accumulated unevenly or a blade has been damaged. Motor and impeller work requires correct parts and safe electrical testing, so it is not a routine DIY cleaning task.

When Filters and Other Components Need Replacing

Metal grease filters can last for many years if cleaned correctly. Replace one if the frame is bent, the mesh has separated, holes have developed or the catch no longer holds it securely. A warped filter can allow grease laden air to bypass the filter and reach the motor.

Disposable grease filters need replacement when the saturation indicator changes colour, grease has soaked across the material or the filter becomes brittle. Carbon filters need replacement according to usage and manufacturer guidance, usually every three to six months for a standard type.

Replace lamp covers that are cracked or no longer seal properly. Use only the specified lamp type and wattage. Modern hoods may have integrated LED modules that require an appliance technician rather than a simple bulb change.

Ducting should be replaced if it is split, crushed, heavily contaminated beyond practical cleaning or made from unsuitable material. Greasy flexible duct can be difficult to clean thoroughly, so replacement is often more reliable than attempting to wash it.

A complete cooker hood may be more economical than repair where the motor, control board and lighting have all deteriorated, or where proprietary parts are obsolete. Installation also provides an opportunity to correct undersized ducting or poor discharge arrangements.

Practical Maintenance Checklist

  • Wipe exterior surfaces after heavy cooking sessions
  • Check filters monthly for visible grease build up
  • Listen for changes in fan noise, which can indicate blockage
  • Replace carbon filters on schedule
  • Inspect ducting for obstruction or damage
  • Ensure external vents are not blocked by debris

Record the date each carbon filter is fitted inside the appliance manual or on a household maintenance calendar. This is more reliable than waiting for odours to return.

Run the fan at a suitable speed while cooking and for around ten minutes afterwards, subject to the manufacturer’s advice. Capturing vapour before it settles reduces cleaning elsewhere in the kitchen.

Cost of Professional Cooker Hood Cleaning in the UK

While many homeowners handle cleaning themselves, there are situations where a professional service is worthwhile, particularly in rental properties or heavily used kitchens.

Service Typical Cost Time Required
Basic hood and filter clean £60 to £120 1 to 2 hours
Deep clean including fan housing £120 to £250 2 to 3 hours
Duct cleaning and inspection £150 to £350 2 to 4 hours
Carbon filter replacement £40 to £100 including parts 30 to 60 minutes

Costs vary depending on access, hood type and level of contamination.

Location also affects labour rates. Services in London and parts of the South East often sit towards the top of the range. A minimum call out charge may apply even where cleaning takes less than an hour.

Island hoods cost more to service because safe access is harder and large filters can be awkward to handle. High ceilings may require specialist access equipment. Integrated models can also take longer where cupboard panels or trim pieces must be removed carefully.

Heavy grease, neglected ducting and inaccessible external terminals increase labour time. Costs may also rise if the engineer needs to protect stone worktops, move appliances or work around delicate cabinetry.

Replacement parts are another variable. Standard carbon pads are inexpensive, but branded filter cassettes, motor assemblies, control boards and LED modules can add significantly to the bill. Ask whether a quotation includes parts, labour, VAT, waste disposal and any return visit.

A diagnostic appliance visit commonly costs around £70 to £130 before parts. Electrical repairs or motor replacement can bring the total to roughly £150 to £450, depending on the model and access. Premium island or downdraught systems can cost more.

Duct alterations are normally priced separately. A straightforward accessible replacement may cost around £150 to £400, while work through cupboards, ceilings, masonry or a roof can exceed this once making good and access are included.

Common Mistakes To Avoid

Even straightforward jobs can go wrong. These are the issues tradespeople see most often.

  • Ignoring the ducting, grease accumulates beyond the visible hood and can restrict airflow
  • Using harsh chemicals, these can damage aluminium filters and void warranties
  • Not drying components properly, moisture near electrics can lead to faults
  • Forgetting carbon filters, cleaning alone will not address odours in recirculating systems
  • Overloading the dishwasher, filters can warp if poorly supported

Another mistake is operating the fan without its grease filters. This exposes the impeller and motor housing to concentrated grease. Never use the hood in this condition unless the manufacturer specifically instructs you to do so for a brief test.

Using a steam cleaner is also risky. Pressurised moisture can enter switches, lamp fittings, motor windings and control boards. It may also force grease further into inaccessible parts of the appliance.

What Can Go Wrong If You Do Not Clean It

Neglecting a cooker hood is not just a cosmetic issue.

Restricted airflow means steam stays in the kitchen. This increases condensation on cold surfaces and contributes to mould growth. If this becomes visible, you may need stronger remediation methods. See How To Remove Mould From Walls for practical guidance.

Grease build up is also flammable. In worst case scenarios, a kitchen fire can spread into ducting. Insurance claims can be complicated if maintenance has been neglected.

The motor is another weak point. Working against resistance causes overheating, which leads to failure. Replacing a cooker hood motor can cost £80 to £300 in parts alone.

Grease can also damage soft close hinges, cabinet finishes and sealants around the cooking area. Persistent moisture may swell cupboard panels or affect plaster and decoration. These repairs often cost more than routine filter maintenance.

Cooker Hood Cleaning and UK Building Regulations

While there is no regulation specifically requiring regular cleaning, ventilation systems must meet performance standards under Approved Document F of the Building Regulations. You can read the official guidance here, UK Government Approved Document F.

If grease build up reduces extraction rates, your system may no longer meet expected airflow levels, especially in modern airtight homes.

For broader context on ventilation systems, including alternatives like MVHR and PIV, see Home Ventilation Systems Explained Extract Fans PIV and MVHR for Healthier Rooms.

Approved Document F applies in England. Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland have their own building standards and technical guidance. Requirements can differ, so use the guidance for the nation where the property is located.

Replacing a hood like for like is usually straightforward. Creating a new external opening may involve structural checks, weatherproofing and compliance with ventilation requirements. Listed buildings, leasehold properties and some flats may also require consent before an external grille is added or altered.

Do You Need an Electrician or Specialist

Routine cleaning does not require certification. However, if you notice electrical faults, flickering lights or failing motors, a qualified electrician should inspect the unit.

Look for professionals registered with NICEIC or NAPIT for electrical safety. If ductwork modifications are required, a kitchen fitter or ventilation specialist is usually appropriate.

Choosing the right fan system in the first place also makes maintenance easier. If you are upgrading, this resource helps, Choosing the Right Extractor Fan for Bathrooms and Kitchens Explained.

Clear DIY Limits for Motors and Electrics

Safe DIY work normally covers isolating the supply, removing user serviceable filters, cleaning accessible surfaces and replacing a standard lamp where the manual permits it. Stop if access requires removing fixed electrical covers or disturbing wiring.

Do not attempt to test live conductors, repair a control board, replace a capacitor or open a motor unless you have the necessary competence and test equipment. Capacitors can retain charge after the supply has been switched off.

Burning smells, scorching, repeated fuse operation, electric shocks, arcing or a hot fused spur require immediate isolation. Do not restore power until the fault has been assessed by a competent electrician or appliance repair engineer.

Motor replacement is rarely just a matter of swapping one part. The engineer may need to confirm voltage, speed control compatibility, earthing, insulation condition and correct impeller balance. Incorrect assembly can create a shock, fire or mechanical risk.

Signs Your Cooker Hood Needs Immediate Attention

  • Strong cooking smells lingering long after use
  • Visible grease dripping or staining
  • Reduced suction even at maximum speed
  • Unusual noises from the fan
  • Condensation forming around cabinets and windows

These symptoms suggest either heavy contamination or mechanical issues.

Switch the unit off immediately if it produces smoke, sparks, a burning electrical smell or severe grinding. Grease dripping near a gas flame or hot electric element also needs urgent cleaning once the appliance and hob are safely isolated and cool.

FAQ

Can I clean cooker hood filters in the dishwasher

Yes, most metal grease filters are dishwasher safe, but check the manufacturer first. Use a hot cycle without additional dishes. Avoid aggressive detergents as they can dull the finish.

How long does it take to clean a cooker hood properly

Allow 45 minutes to 1.5 hours for a standard clean. Heavily soiled units or those not cleaned for years can take longer, especially if multiple soak cycles are needed.

Why does my cooker hood still smell after cleaning

This is usually due to saturated carbon filters or grease inside the ducting. Cleaning visible parts alone will not solve odour issues in recirculating systems.

Is it safe to use vinegar on stainless steel cooker hoods

Yes, diluted white vinegar can remove grease and streaks. Always rinse and dry afterwards to prevent marks.

Do I need to replace my cooker hood if it is not working well

Not always. Many performance issues are due to blocked filters or ducting. A full clean and inspection should be done before considering replacement.

Can I clean inside cooker hood ducting myself

You can inspect and wipe a short, accessible section after safely isolating the hood. Long concealed runs, roof terminals and heavily contaminated ducting need appropriate equipment and safe access. Do not push brushes into a duct if they could damage joints or leave debris trapped inside.

Why is water dripping from my cooker hood

Water may be condensed cooking vapour, particularly where a metal duct passes through a cold space. It can also result from a blocked or sagging duct. Check filters and visible ducting, then arrange an inspection if dripping continues.

Should a cooker hood vent into the loft

No. A ducted cooker hood should discharge to the outside through a suitable terminal. Venting warm, moist and greasy air into a loft can contribute to condensation, timber decay, staining and mould.

Final Thoughts

A clean cooker hood is not just about appearance. It directly affects air quality, safety and the efficiency of your kitchen. Regular maintenance is straightforward and saves money by extending the life of the appliance.

If your hood has been neglected for years or you are dealing with deeper ventilation issues, it may be worth getting professional help. You can post a job on BookaBuilderUK to receive quotes from vetted local tradespeople who can inspect, clean or upgrade your system properly.



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